Pacific Coast Bike Tour - Olympic Nat'l Forest, WA to San Francisco, CA

Where the tour began was in my head. My long time close friend, Jon, is a cartographer (map maker) and is in charge of GIS Mapping for the California Coastal Commission. His maps and metrics were used in the completion of the California Coastal Trail by the Coastal Conservancy.

We had always talked about riding the coast after this work was completed. Being a sailor as well as avid cyclist, incorporating the historical Lighthouses that dot the Pacific Coast would be the respective destination points. We called it The Pacific Coast Lighthouse Tour.

Unfortunately, Jon could not join me on the tour due to hip replacement surgery. He was my human GPS on the French tour we did together.

So began the research and planning. In addition to Jon’s maps and books the intent was to create a route guide that identified specific destination points along the route. Now I could better determine the distances between destination points along the planned route and list each as “ride” segments not ride dates. The resulting ride/route guide had 20 ride segments so I gave myself at least a month to reach my final destination.

The reason for this approach was because of the reconnaissance and photo work for the lighthouse tour and to be flexible enough to adjust, avoid, or enjoy whatever comes. On both counts the tour could not have gone better.

Grays Harbor Lt House - Westport, WA

Above Cannon Beach, OR

Golden Gate Bridge, CA

The Particulars

There are books and blogs on cycling the Pacific Coast regarding how to prepare, what to bring, what to expect, experience information and what to see. However, from my actual experience in doing the ride, they are a bit to general from a cyclist perspective and could be much improved especially from a cyclist/cartographer perspective.

Tour HQ

Most all of us, by our very nature, are reasonably healthy from a fitness and dietary regimen (our way of life). As we decide on certain hiking, climbing, cycling, eventing and trekking, from time to time, we adjust our fitness and diet, knowing the right shape to be in to enjoy them.

For those of us who learn as we go, and I still do from time to time, experience is the greatest teacher.

My cycling fitness for this trip was not optimal but with a 1000 mile trek ahead of me I knew I would be riding into better shape. However, riding at least 500 miles a month for three consecutive months prior to the start would be a good base (20-25mi/day x 4 + 1 day/week @ 35 to 50mi ~ 115-150mi/week).

What to bring is not too much! We all have a tendency to take more than we need. Two pairs of cycling shorts, 1 short and 1 knickers are a must as are two jerseys, 1 short and 1 long sleeve, 2 pairs of gloves, arm warmers, 1 pair long fingered gloves and socks. Same for one each vest and jacket. The rest of non-cycling clothing is what you want to bring. Because I was taking advantage of the State Parks hiker/biker campsites, I brought the related light weight camping gear and a few freeze dried foods for the times I might have passed up the only food stop before camping.

The Coast Range is a continuous series of rollers and steep saw tooth like up and downs that seem to come at you constantly. The longer and a bit higher climbs are part of the King Range (Humboldt & Mendocino Counties). So don’t be deceived…you’ll be climbing along the Pacific Coast. The longest and highest climb is Leggett (2000 feet, 7% grade for several miles), which comes some 200+ miles south of the Oregon/California boarder (part of the King Range).

Gearing for this tour is a function of the load you’re going to bring via panniers or trailer. My gearing, hauling the Burley Nomad (a bit ironic) trailer, was a 50/34 compact crank and 12/34 cassette. Could have used a triple (50/34/30) at times but it was fine.

Panniers? Trailer? Gearing?

Weather wise, the coast through Washington, Oregon and Northern California had a persistent marine layer that kept the temperatures in the low 60’s during the rides and low to mid 50’s at night…. as well the wind, some of the time, was coming from the south…and it was August??

Oregon Coast Marine Layer

With these conditions, other than some southerly’s, it was perfect for cycling but a bit cooler than expected at night and everything was damp in the AM. So hiker/biker campsites with hot showers were great and if they had a laundry facilities even better.

Just remember, not unlike high mountains, the coast can also create its own weather so keep that I mind as you decide what to bring. This is true even if you choose to hotel it versus camp as the majority of your time will be on the road.

Ride 1 - Quinault Lake to Twin Harbors State Park (Westport, WA) – 55mi

Camped the first night at Lake Quinault after hiking through the Rain Forest…beautiful. Turned in to get an early start for the first 50+ miler with, of course, a bit of climbing.

Leaving this beautiful Olympic National Forest after riding for nearly 20 miles I came to the clear cut and second growth timber section before heading into Copalis Beach and Ocean City. Because the desired route from Ocean City south involves an unreliable small ferry crossing to Westport, I traveled east toward Aberdeen and then southwest to Westport and then to Twin Harbors State Park.

Westport at Grays Harbor is a very picturesque New England type harbor village and has the historical Grays Harbor Lighthouse. Very fresh fish and oysters are quite inexpensive and fantastic.

Westport, WA

The beach access from the campsites was through a short forest trail and over the sand dunes to a very wide and long beach, which I walked along getting to enjoy the surf and the views.

Twin Harbors State Park

Over the Dunes...

to the Beach

2- Twin Harbors to Bush Pacific at Willapa Bay, WA – 53mi

This was another 55+ miler in unseasonably cool and overcast weather. The road surfaces and wide shoulders were quite good in general. The first half of the ride was flat to small rollers and the rest, with hauling my trailer, were steeper long rollers; ups were long and downs short, and required the lower gears for many of the ups.

The ride was filled with impressive views of wet lands, forests and around the shores of Willapa Bay. There were quite a lot of dear along the route.

On the last longest climb there was a cyclist in need of help with a broken chain. All he needed to complete the repair were pliers, which I happened to have. As he was completing his repair a young woman passed by with what turned out to be her husband another 100 yards behind. I would meet up with them later at the same campsite.

Unfortunately, as he thanked me and started off mid climb the derailleur broke. He had run the chain incorrectly. I felt bad for him but wasn’t carrying any spare derailleurs. Suggested he pull the derailleur and run the chain like a fix gear. And if that fails and your thumb still works one of the many pick-ups on the road would be sure to give you a lift. Wished him luck and was back on my way.

Word had it that the facilities were better at the KOA close to rather that at Bush Pacific County Park, which is were I met up with the couple I saw pass by earlier. Turns out they were from Vancouver BC and were headed for Mexico. They were facing three broken spokes on the rear wheel, might have had something to do with the 4 person tent and the over packed stuff they were hauling. Hope they made out.

No pictures until I got to the KOA to charge up my camera. So here’s an exciting picture of my campsite.

KOA campsite

3- Bush Pacific/KOA to Cape Disappointment – Ilwaco, WA – 35mi

Started my day with breakfast at Dock of the Bay restaurant. I was the only customer and was waited on by a young woman who was visiting with her friend at the bar between refilling my coffee. Her friend was complaining about her husband and she was validating “man bad, woman good”…time to ride on.

The ride was moderate as I rode along the edge of Willapa Bay and passed through the Willapa Wildlife Refuge and into Long Beach. Found the paved trail along the beach and went into town for a great meal before continuing onto Cape Disappointment.

Long Beach, WA

The bike path to Long Beach

Cape Disappointment is a quite a climb in and out of the town of Ilwaco, although not terribly long, it is challenging. However, it is definitely more than worth the effort. This is the epicenter of the Louis & Clark exploits in the Northwest. The central museum is located here and across the road is Fort Canby.

The route to Cape Disappointment

State Park

The only disappointment (pun intended) was even though the Hiker/Biker campsite and facilities were great, I was the only biker there. However, believe it or not, there was a pizza stand 50 yards from me in the camp…wood fire stone oven made awesome thin crust pizzas.

 
Later that night 4 motorcycle campers pulled in, 3 guys from Vancouver BC and 1 woman from the US who had wrapped her camping paraphernalia in an American flag on the back and was very loud – her not the motorcycle. She was not happy with the campsite they were given and headed back to tell the ranger.

While she was gone I spoke with one of the guys and they said all was fine as far as they were concerned and that this woman had hooked onto them about 50 miles back. It was a bit comical when she returned. There were no other spots and she was hot. She said “I take my camping very seriously and want to be further away from people so I can be loud, have a big fire and drink”.

I was too tired and was able to get to sleep after she came down a bit.

By the way, the very impressive Discovery Trail, you’ll pass on this climb, adds to the reasons that spending some extra time in and around Cape Disappointment is worthwhile.

North Point Lighthouse 

4- Cape Disappointment to Cannon Beach, OR – 37mi

It is an immediate climb out of the camp into Ilwaco. Had a great breakfast by the harbor with the fishermen and locals. After breakfast enjoyed a relatively flat ride along the north edge of the Columbia River to the infamous Astoria bridge.

The bridge crossing is not for the faint of heart. There is a marginal shoulder, moderate to heavy traffic depending on the day of the week. The bridge crossing is some 4 miles long and just when you think all is well and look ahead to the last mile there is what looks like a steep wall coming at you. This is the very high section that allows the huge ships to get through. You’ll be looking for your lower if not lowest gear to get up and over this section into Astoria…grunt.

And then comes another bridge, shortly thereafter, into Warrenton but not the measure of the Astoria bridge; good shoulder but more traffic. Stopped to fuel (eat) up before continuing the flatter section through Seaside and then the climb to Cannon Beach.

Seaside

Surf Shop

Arriving in Cannon Beach decided I had enough and camped out at Sea Ranch in Cannon Beach. This is a beautiful and picturesque town and beach, very touristic and expensive, but a nice break.

Cannon Beach

The Road above Cannon Beach

5- Cannon Beach to Cape Lookout – 68mi

Was a beautiful day and ride out of Cannon Beach. After some 10 miles the climbs begin again, including the Cape Arch tunnel that runs uphill. After getting through the tunnel the climb continues for several miles. The descent was nice but leads me to the next tougher climb of Neahkahnie Mtn.

Cape Arch Tunnel

Overlook From Neahkahnie Mtn

The view from here and the descent was one of the best. Next continuing around Nehalem bay and crossing the Nehalem river. Next was passing through Rockaway Beach and onto Tillamook (say cheese) and then Cape Mears and finally Cape Lookout State Park…beautiful.

Descent Neahkahnie Mtn

Nehalem River/bridge crossing

Rockaway Beach

 Say cheese

Cape Lookout

The greatest surprise before arriving at Cape Lookout, which I thought was a mirage, was actually a Bar-b-que restaurant! Needless to say, I pigged out literally.

6- Cape Lookout to Beverly Beach – 58mi

Another steep climb, like Cape Disappointment, out of Cape Lookout. However, this forested climb had virtually no traffic, peaceful and beautiful.

After the long decent, past Sand Lake are pastoral views and some rolling hills, was the flat run into Cape Kiwanda, crossing the Nestucca River, and through Pacific City. Then I took the scenic route east of Hwy 101 at Neskowin riding the 10 mile

Neskowin Scenic Drive

through the Siuslaw National Forest.

Cape Kiwanda

Nestucca River, OR

Neskowin Scenic Drive, OR

At Otis I rejoined 101 along the beach to Lincoln City. The road from here was varied terrain, from rollers to a steeper climb up and over Cape Foulweather (where, as it is so named, can be extremely windy). However, the views are incredible and I stopped at several vista points for pictures.

Shoeline coming into Lincoln City, OR

Between Rocky Creek Wayside & Cape Foulweather

Before the climb to Cape Foulweather

The view climbing Cape Foulweather

Otter Creast Wayside atop Cape Foulweather

The run down to Beverly Beach from Otter Crest was sweet. Beverly Beach State Park had a very good Hiker/Biker campsite and now a growing number of cyclists. As it was a weekend there were several Oregonians doing a long weekend but now I was meeting more people who where from other states and countries heading south like me.

View down to Beverly Beach on the descent

Beverly Beach Hiker/Biker campsite

It was a great end to a long beautiful day’s ride; hot shower, good meal and conversations. Looking forward to tomorrow’s ride, which will first be the Yaquina Lighthouse and then the Heceta Head Lighthouse in route to Jessie M. Honeyman Memorial State Park.

7- Beverly Beach to Jessie M. Honeyman Memorial State Park – 60mi

Had my usual breakfast; oatmeal with fresh black raspberry’s and coffee. At this time of year, black raspberries are plentiful along the roadsides and sometimes at the campsite.

My first short ride of the day was directly to Yaquina Lighthouse. This light house was built on a higher point above Agate Beach (surfer favorite) to provide a broader visibility beacon than its predecessor the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse.  

Road to Yaquina Lighthouse

Agate Beach, OR

Waiting for the BIG ones

Yaquina Lighthouse, OR

After spending some time here the route was through Nye Beach to Newport to visit the historic Yaquina Bay Lighthouse. The physical environment of Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, to me, is the opportunity to experience the era as it was in 1871. It is a living symbol of early adventures and developers of the Northwest Territory and its’ historical importance…worth seeing.

Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, OR

Yaquina Bay History

Yaquina Bay Light & Drawings

Yaquina Bay LtHS Kitchen

The lighthouse and park are at the northwest end of the Newport Bridge, which is above the channel coming into Newport’s harbor. Yaquina Bay Lighthouse provided the guiding beacons for sailors to enter and find the bay harbor.

Newport Bridge, OR

Beaver Creek - Ona Beach State Park

Now was time to venture on as I still had 50 miles ahead of me. After crossing the Newport Bridge I passed Ona Beach and went across Beaver Creek which fed into the Pacific at this point.

Seal Rock, OR

Bridge into Waldport

Between Yachats & Cape Perpetua

Cape Perpetua to Heceta Head

Heceta Head Lighthouse, OR

What was great about this ride is it was right along the ocean pretty much the entire way as well as the climb passing through Cape Creek tunnel down to Honeyman.

8- Honeyman State Park to Sunset Bay State Park – 55mi

Left Honeyman on a gradual climb to the Oregon Dunes Overlook and then began the steep climb and descent into Gardiner. Crossed over the Smith River to Reedsport and climbed again from Winchester Bay above the Umpqua Lighthouse, which I could barely see through the fog.

Oregon Dunes Overlook

Umpqua Lighthouse in the fog

The weather was not good for pictures again until coming to the bridge into North Bend and Coos Bay. The  ride over the bridge and through these cities was not pleasant and my focus became getting through this busy traffic area and to Sunset Bay as fast as possible.

Coming in to North Bend and Coos Bay

This was a good call as this is were, what would become, the core group of people I would journey with pretty much the rest of the way to SF began to coalesce.

Whether traveling in pairs or alone, on long treks such as this, you eventually find yourself on pace with certain people, literally and figuratively.

9- Sunset Bay to Port Orford, OR – 50mi

Started today’s ride with a very steep one mile climb out of Sunset Bay. There was a gentle section to get your legs back before taking on the aptly named Seven Devils (7 successive climbs). The descents were not quite long enough to get enough momentum to make it up the next one with out pedaling in the lower gears.

As I’m grinding up one of them I saw faintly but nicely painted “don’t you just love it” on the road surface…cyclist humor. Then after the last descent was a 6% (average) grade climb and descent to Bandon. After Bandon came the continuous ups and downs to Langlois and a long climb inland from Cape Blanco where I meet up with James and Jackie (part of the core group) on their Tandem.

Top of Bandon climb

Here comes...

James and Jackie...

and there they go!

Our destination was Humbug Mountain State Park but with a long day of climbing when I reached Port Orford I had to eat. The marine layer had socked in the town and visibility virtually went to zero while I was eating. Having eight more miles in these conditions over Humbug Mountain was not going to happen at this point.

Met two men at dinner who where traveling via their very sweet BMW moto’s. They where staying at a little motel across the street, they said was quite cheap. Well hard to beat $5 hiker/biker tariff, but the large toothless woman who ran the place, understanding my plight, gave me a room for $35.

Sweet moto

Since I hadn’t had a rest day yet, thought I would hang and have a real bed, shower, restful sleep, good breakfast and do laundry and see what tomorrow brings.

Rest and Laundry day - Port Orford

10- Port Orford to Harris Beach State Park – 58mi

Woke up to a beautiful sunny day, put my laundry together headed out for a great breakfast first and then to the town launder mat. Looked over today’s route and decided to go ahead and ride to Harris Beach and reconnect with the group.

A sunny day, YEA!

Started up the climb over Humbug Mountain where I met a strong southerly (?) wind along the rolling hills to the next climb around Cape Sebastian. Pushing against a strong headwind I saw a big semi truck towing a flat bed trailer parked at a vista turn-out. I thought how great it would be to throw my bike and trailer on their trailer and get a ride.

Leaving Port Orford, OR

The same truck passed me later on and I had the thought again. As I approached the crest of Cape Sebastian there they were parked on the opposite side of the road.

The BIG rig

Having reached the crest I had stopped for a break and to take a photo. The driver of the truck, as it turned out, was doing the same and asked where I was headed. I told him to Harris Beach at Brookings and not enjoying the headwind for the last 35 miles. He laughed and said “throw her on, we’re heading that way”.

My ride at Cape Sebastian

Serendipitous, luck, telepathy? Whatever it was I did the cliché thing; “are you sure?” Oh, and I don’t have money for diesel. We clicked, and so it happened. We tied them down and off we went.

                                   

Turns out they, father, son and son’s friend, had just delivered a dragster to Seattle and were heading back on a circuitous route to Lake Ozark, Missouri, where they’re from. They had never been to the Pacific Coast and thought they’d make a holiday out of it.

My chauffeurs, Mark, Cody & Nate

We traded great stories and still made several stops in route so we could enjoy the scenery and some beaches. They are in the drag racing business (Barklage Racing - myspace.com/barklageracing), dad and son build them, son drives them and friend works on them.

Cody & Nate between Cape Sebastian & Arch Rock

When I rolled into Harris Beach, there were Peter and Anna from our group. A bit shocked but laughing when they saw me and this huge rig.

Peter & Anna at Harris Beach

Hugo (our New Zealander -Kiwi-friend), with a great sense of humor, began the heckling about my truck ride, which came up again after dinner and a beer or two. However, I reminded them about Peter and Anna’s truck ride a week ago.

Hugo - Mr Good Humor

Peter and Anna are from Germany and on one of their rides they were at the side of the road reading a map when a Tim’s Chip truck pulled over to ask if they needed help. Having made a navigational error they were further from their destination and asked for better directions. The driver said put your bikes and selves in the back and I’ll get you there.

At the end of their ride they thanked the driver and he wished them well and gave them a case of chips, which they shared with the rangers when they checked in to the campsite.

So at the campfire, I put forth the challenge to this heckling group; “three of us have managed to hitch truck rides, so how good are the rest of you”?

Campfire - Harris Beach

11- Harris Beach to Klamath, CA – 59mi

Time to leave the beautiful Oregon Coast and head for (sunny?) California. This would be a relatively flat run into Crescent City before the long climb and descent to trees of Mystery and the small town of Klamath.

Leaving Harris Beach, OR

So Jackie, James, Hugo and I road together to the California boarder and Smith Creek crossing, and began separating on the climb at Crescent City.

Heading for the boarder

California!

California here we come!

So much Fun

I later found Jackie and James midway on the climb taking a break; James with a hand rolled smoke and Jackie with a thermos of coffee.

Climb out of Crescent City, CA

What can I say about these two? She a math teacher and he an eco home developer and their eclectic style. Their tandem is a Santana (also their last name), he rides in Teva sandals, her in tennis shoes, the rear panniers are 5 gallon buckets, which he say’s are light weight, water tight and serve as camp stools as well. By the way, their ultimate destination was to a friends wedding in Santa Rosa, they started out from Salem, Oregon, their home.

Oh and Hugo, before meeting up with us, had been trekking somewhere in the Northeast, took a train from Chicago, which he won’t do again, to get up to Alaska where he met up with friends for another trek, flew to Portland to trek from there to SF and then fly home to Wellington New Zealand, to go skiing. Hugo is a carpenter by trade, a kayak guide and adventurer, with too many to list. Good on ya, as they say in NZ.

The climb takes us into the Redwood National Forest, where the great redwood trees begin and the descent is to the Trees of Mystery and then Klamath where I over-nighted, as I needed to hit the Post Office in the morning, and the rest traveled onto Elk Prairie.

Top of a climb in Redwood Nat'l Forest

Descending into the Trees of Mystery area

Trees of Mystery, CA

The reason for the Post Office was? I was into California and had identified about 18lbs of gear I was hauling up and down the climbs at this point that wasn’t essential. Knowing that in just a few days we would be making even more demanding climbs, including the infamous 2000 foot Leggett climb, it was time to jettison this stuff.

Found a campground in Klamath that was one of the few RV camps that accepted tents.

12- Klamath to Eureka (KOA), CA – 60mi

 Woke up to see every trash bin had been up-ended. Turns out, according to the buzz around camp a few bears had made their nightly raid. Now I know why they have bear sculpture on the bridge into and out of town.

Leaving Klamath...a bit lighter.

After a short distance I was greeted with, what else, another long climb(s) and descent into Elk Prairie. Exiting the beautiful redwoods on the descent I came into grassy meadows filled with elk, what a sight.

Elk Prairie, CA

Next were the climbs around Big Lagoon, in and out. This was followed by the climb to Patrick’s Point and Trinidad. A few miles further at Little River State Beach the road heads in-land to Arcata and then finally to the KOA campsite just north of Eureka.

Big Lagoon, CA

Passing Arcata on 101 was a

Bike Route

detour that went through farms and river crossings and rejoined 101 just a few miles before the camp exit.

Bike Path Detour to Eureka,CA

Having started my ride from Klamath and the rest of the group from Elk Prairie meant they arrived ahead of me and set up camp. Because we were all there together this time it looked like tent city.

Tent City - Eureka KOA

 Bill & Web's(ter) Excellent Adventures

Bill and Webster’s story was that they had flown out from NY and DC respectively to their start point, which was Portland where they purchased matching Surly Long Haul Trekker and why Hugo always referred to them as the twins. There destination was ultimately the boarder of Mexico.

Bill and Webster knew each other from their undergraduate years at Cornell. Webster had gone onto law school at Georgetown University and had just finished. So they decided to go on what we all called “Bill and Web’s Excellent Adventure” as Webster has to report to Uncle Sam in February.

Stuart was developing a reputation with vacationers who were traveling from point to point along the coast via cars and RV’s. Stuart was very noticeable along the route as he had his acoustic guitar strapped to his back and his Bob trailer in tow. He was going from is home in Seattle to the infamous Music Workshop in Cazadero, located in Sonoma Valley. Stuart is an accomplished Brazilian Choro guitarist as well as a music and Spanish teacher.

We had grown to a group of nine over the course of these rides and were enjoying each others company on rides and at our campsites. Stuart kept saying he needed to take a rest day, but didn’t want to separate from the group. He was afraid that if he did this he may not reconnect with the group that he was enjoying a lot.

This campsite had great amenities for all of us; swimming pool, laundry, store, computer with internet access. Several of us took advantage of the pool, all of us did laundry and Peter and Anna took advantage of the computer. Peter is a Physical Therapist and Anna works in the tour business. They were trying to keep up with their postings as many of their friends back in Germany follow their many treks around the world.

We all knew that Eureka would be a terminus; Peter and Anna would be heading east at Scotia (30 miles south of Eureka) making their way to Yosemite, Lake Tahoe and then to LA before flying home sometime in October. James and Jackie were behind schedule to make the wedding on time, having too much fun staying with the group and needed to go into Arcata after breakfast to explore transportation options.

Hugo decided to do the Lost Coast section west of 101 at Ferndale (20+ miles south of Eureka) and reconnect with the rest of us, hopefully, by Standish-Hickey State Park, just before the Leggett climb. The Lost Coast is part of the King Range having the highest peaks of the range, which many of them come up from the ocean shore. It is very isolated, the longest underdeveloped stretch of Coast in California, quite demanding and very beautiful.

So, we all finished our last beers and decided Breakfast in Eureka together would be the start of the next day.

"We are Family"

Here we are the original nine, (L-R) Bill, Frank, James, Jackie, Hugo, Stuart, Peter, Anna, Webster.

13- Eureka to Avenue of the Giants, Burlington Campground – 53mi

There we all were - nine strong; destination Ramon’s in Eureka’s Old Town for breakfast. Since I had it on my high school classmates (she lives in the neighboring town of Trinidad) authority, this was “the” best coffee/bakery house we pace-lined we me at the lead.

It was a brisk pace, which drew attention as we wound our way into Old Town with a brief stop at the Carson Mansion before swarming in on the locals at Ramon’s.

Carson Mansion - Eureka, CA

I hung back, as the others traveled on, to rendezvous with my classmate as she was heading for the Umbria region in Italy in a few weeks and wanted to meet up and pick my brain as I have traveled the northern regions of Italy.

Getting out of the City was a bit challenging with a lot of traffic. Once back onto 101 it started with a good shouldered flat road, traveling through open county side along Humboldt Bay for 10+miles with a climb between Loleta and Fortuna and the long gradual climb to Scotia (the infamous town whose Pacific Lumber Company was being protested by Julia “Butterfly” Hill, who lived in a 180 foot (55m) 1500 year old Redwood tree for 2 years because of their massive clear cutting practices).

Loleta/Fernbridge area is where Hugo branched off for the Lost Coast and Scotia is the area where Peter and Anna headed east for Yosemite. As well James and Jackie ventured back to Arcata in search of their transportation options to the wedding in Santa Rosa.

Bill and Webster were a bit ahead of all of us in route to Burlington campground as was Stuart. As I past Scotia I connected with Stuart and rode together to another climb and headed east to Pepperwood to follow the Avenue of the Giants, which is the road the Burlington campground is on.

Stuart and I leisurely rode through the Giants to fully enjoy their majesty and beauty. At one point we came upon a vegetable stand where Stuart loaded up for a vegetable sauté that night. He always cooked an interesting and flavorful camp meal, having brought his own blend of spices. I think, along with his musical and language talents, his culinary base is from his South American roots as well.

From this stop we came up on a guy riding with complete front and rear panniers and towing a trailer like mine. As we road up on him, I said hey quite a load. He responded with “got lots of food, figs and apples I picked, want some”?

Appreciate the offer Chuck but have enough for now.

Hey, how’d you know my name was Charles?

Didn’t.

With as much as you’re hauling, I meant “chuck” as in chuck wagon.

I think he got it, Stuart didn’t think so.

Stuart and I were taking our time and lost track of him along the way.

Avenue of the Giants (and Guitars)

Riding the Avenue of the Giants is incredible, almost overwhelming. The road snakes through these centuries old giants, standing well over 100 feet high. The spectrum of colors, light, and smells gave rise to one of the greatest experiences of being in the nature. The light of this day accentuated every detail of the majesty of these great giants, from the soft needled floor at their base to their heights, which reach high into sky, we were truly fortunate.

Giant Redwoods

When Stuart and I reached camp Bill and Webster were already set up. And there too was none other than “chuck wagon”. He was sitting at his table with green figs and little red/green apples spread out. We acknowledge each other and, of course, he offered us his fruit.

Bill and Webster, realizing we knew Chuck, asked what this odd fellow’s story was. As the early evening wore on we came to find out he had been picking all this fruit along the way. The fig story was the best. Turns out he was in some lady’s yard, having spotted a heavy laden fig tree, and started picking them. The woman approached him and was angry asking him to leave. But what we also came to find out that evening is he is quite a talker. He convinced her that it was not possible for her to enjoy all these figs herself and they would just go to waste. Apparently, from his story, she agreed.

Chuck Wagon, Stuart and the figs

Stuart was busy sautéing his vegetables and I had just finished my freeze dried chicken and rice, yum, when another cyclist rode in laid down his bike, pulled out a beer and block of cheese from one of his panniers. Told me he had done 110 miles, was starving and needed a beer. This was Phil from the UK. He was a man on a mission and had three days to make his flight in SF. This meant he had to do 90+ miles per day.

So as he Stuart, Bill, Webster and I were drinking our beers and talking he told us he worked at a Hostel back in the UK and had taken a two week holiday to do the same ride we were on, which meant 75+ mile/day averages. He was quite a character as it turned out.

While he was eating his block of cheese, like and ice cream sandwich, and drinking another beer, he told us that his co-workers had put together a pool to bet on whether or not he would make it. However, the pool wasn’t just “yes he would, or no he wouldn’t make it”. There were more specific categories of accomplishment. Beside the mundane “yes” or “no” there were; how far before he bailed, injures himself, gets injured by someone or something else or dies. He said most of them bet he dies.

We hadn’t seen Chuck in a while and all of a sudden a very large tree branch comes crashing next to us, he’s been out collecting fire wood. He proceeded to break up what was more like a tree than a branch and get a fire going. He went off again and brought in more timber, we had to stop the pyro.

Tomorrow was going to be a fair amount of climbing so it was time to turn in. Fortunately, my tent was far enough away from the blazing inferno.

14- Burlington to Standish-Hickey State Park – 48mi

The route today continues inland through the Giants and will begin the long gradual climbing, with some steeps thrown in, through dry open fields to Garberville passing through Benbow valley and Richardson Grove to a series of climbs to Standish-Hickey.

Riding through the canopy of Giants continued to amaze me. The temperature, being further in from the coast, when I reached the open field and occasional forested sections on the climb to Garberville, was in the high 70’s (20’s/c).

As I rode into Garberville for provisions (sounds like a old western cowboy movie), saw Webster and Bill. As usual the “twins” had just finished their usual big lunch and where on their way out. They found a great natural food store and restaurant, which sounded perfect.

The store was just up a block from the main street of the great old town. Bought a bit of groceries and lunch (great pre-made salad, fruit, protein sandwich). While I was sitting there in the sun, enjoying my lunch, I saw “Chuck Wagon” riding past down on the main street. Hey people, guard your fruit trees.

A few minutes later I saw Stuart standing on the corner with his bike and guitar surveying for food/restaurant options. I gave him a whistle and holler. He see’s me sitting on the old wooden store loading platform with my bike and food. When he discovered it was a natural food store, he was thrilled…loves good natural food.

We had another 20 miles of continuous climbing to Standish-Hickey. This stretch would take us back through the Benbow Valley and eventually into more redwood forests which were beautiful just not as majestic. We called this section “Avenue of the Adolescence”.

Road descending into Benbow Valley

Webster, Bill, Stuart and I made Standish and were able to get groceries, beer and food across the road. We were setting up camp and Hugo roll’s in. Was great to reconnect and hear about his Lost Coast ride, which was indeed very demanding but well worth it.

Hugo had Cody in tow who, it turns out, had taken Hugo up on the Lost Coast ride when we left Eureka. I was never clear on Cody’s story; he was ultimately headed to Southern or Central California and sleeps in an enclosed hammock, which looked like a suspended pea pod.

The next day we would start with the highest and steepest climb over Leggett.

15- Standish-Hickey to MacKerricher Beach (Fort Bragg) – 40mi

We would be leaving Hwy 101 at Leggett to now begin Hwy 1. After a brief 2 mile ride to Leggett, the 7% average gradient went for 4 miles (6k) up to 2000 feet (610m). The ascent was a series of mostly switch backs and the 5 mile descent had some great serpentine stretches that I could reach speeds 0f 30 (50k) on, even with my stable two wheeled trailer.

Top of Leggett

 Bottom of Leggett

Reconnected with Stuart as we reached the coast at the end of the descent. We were back into the cool, damp marine weather again, and at Rockport immediately began another steep shorter climb. After Westport was a series of sharp saw-tooth climbs and then began a flatter stretch, lined with Eucalyptus trees, as I rode into MacKerricher State Park.

MacKerricher Beach State Park

Joining us that night at the campsite was Lindsey who was riding home to SF having started from Seattle. She had completed 100 miles today. She was very fit and stepping up her miles so she could be in SF by Saturday, which meant she would have to do at least two 90+ mile days to make it.

As the evening wore on, Webster asked her why she had to be back by Saturday. Lindsay looked at him with the dumb question look; “to go out with my friends”.

Naturally, with this group, we had fun with her response.

We all planned that night to do another breakfast ride, like in Eureka, as this would be another terminus point. Lindsey jetting at mach speed to SF, I was going to overnight in Mendocino and then to Sebastopol the next day, Hugo needed to step up his miles as he had to be at the Hostel in SF by Sunday, Web, Stuart and Bill were going at a pace for a Monday arrival in SF.

16- MacKerricher/Fort Bragg to Mendocino – 15mi

There was a beach trail (bike/pedestrian) from the campsite into Fort Bragg where we found a great healthy food restaurant, Café 1. You would have thought we hadn’t eaten in days the way we ate and drank coffee.

Breakfast - Ft Bragg, CA

Breakfast of Champions

I have a wine cellar in North Beach (SF) in Jon’s (my cartographer friend) shop where I keep a collection of my French and Italian wines. Since we were all going to be arriving within a day of each other into SF this would be the place to meet.

 Fueled up and ready to ride

So with more than enough breakfast we all headed out. I had been wanting to take some time on the next to rides to visit Mendocino and then take a side trip to visit my friend in Sebastopol and see the late 1800’s home he’s going to restore and acreage he wants to plant the Spanish Abarino varietal.

The very old small town of Mendocino and shoreline are very picturesque and a good place to slow down and enjoy the ride and day along the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens and Headlands into town.

Mendocino Hotel - CA

Mendocino Coast - CA

17- Mendocino to Manchester/Point Arena – 45mi

After a great relaxing day and good nights sleep I headed to Point Arena along the saw tooth climbs and winding route through Albion, Elk and Manchester to Point Arena and the Lighthouse.

Coming into Albion

Road between Albion and Elk

Coming into Elk

Point Arena Lighthouse - CA

I was on my own for this great ride and camping. Needed to turn in early knowing I had a long ride with similar terrain to today’s ride with a steep climb to Jenner where I would head east to Sebastopol.

18- Pt Arena to Sebastopol – 75mi

Got an early start, had a lot of sharp up and downs along this winding route. Didn’t take but one photo as I was consumed with and focused on my ride, like my old cycle racing days. Even with hauling a trailer I made Sebastopol in just under 5 hours.

Coastal view to Jenner from the climb 

19- Sebastopol to North Beach (SF) – 65mi

The ride from the vineyards of Sebastopol back to the coast at Bodega Bay area was a pretty speedy 18 miles and then south around Tomales Bay and through Point Reyes another 25 enjoyable and picturesque miles.

Bodega Coast - CA

At Olema I connected with Sir Francis Boulevard which heads southeast via  Marin County bike route through several city’s before finally crossing under 101 into and through Sausalito. At the north end of Sausalito is the winding steep climb back up and under 101 to get to the west side and onto the Golden Gate Bridge.

Crossing the Golden Gate could not have happened on a better weather day, warm and crystal clear. Rolled into North Beach around 3:30 that afternoon.

Golden Gate - view from Crissy Field, SF

Time to celebrate our Pacific Coast Tour

As hoped, we all ended up at my wine cellar (Enoteca du Monde) within Jon’s gallery/salon La Bicicletta in North Beach Monday. This was after I took them all for the great ride my friend Jon developed, called BayLine:

>Fort Mason >Marina >GG Bridge (south tower) >Presidio >Baker Beach >Sea Cliff >Legion of Honor >Cliff House >Beach Chalet >Golden Gate Park >Presidio >Ft Mason

We all rendezvoused at the Hostel in Fort Mason and headed out for a leisurely, scenic and fun celebratory ride. Webster’s Georgetown classmate, Michele, was in town visiting a mutual friend and joined us for the ride.

The ride started at 1:00pm and got back to North Beach around 5:00pm. 

The picture under the Finish sign was located at the top of the Presidio. The banner was probably from an earlier organized event, so naturally we took advantage of its placement and appropriateness for what we had just achieved!

Celabratory Ride Photos:

South tower Golden Gate

Yes We Did!! - Presidio

Legion of Honor - Presido SF

Beach Chalet - Pacific Coast Hwy/Golden Gate Park

Conservatory - Golden Gate Park

Webster & Michele - Trouble for the courts!

Atop the Presidio, heading down to North Beach

The great scenic ride brought us back to North Beach where we proceeded to drink a case of great French wines, devourer an untold number of baguettes with cheeses, fruit and prosciutto. And of course there were many stories about this great tour.

What a great ride! North Beach, SF

Is this picture blurry or is it the wine?

Wine time

Too much wine



What can I say? The tour for me and what I wanted to see and accomplish was a complete success, but meeting the others along the way made the tour so much more…it was an epic journey. All were very happy that the final rendezvous in SF worked out. It was more than a fitting conclusion to all our time together and the experiences along the way.

Hopefully, Jon and I will have the tour and tour guide/maps finished this next year, along with several others that have been in the works through out California and France. I’ll be making update postings on our progress.